What size derma roller is best?
This will depend largely on what you're trying to accomplish. Since we're all about simplicity, here's a table summarizing what length should be used depending on what you're trying to treat.
Stainless steel vs. titanium derma rollers
Derma rollers come with either stainless steel or titanium needles. Titanium is more durable because it's a stronger alloy than stainless steel. This means the needles will last longer and the sharpness won't blunt as quickly. However, stainless steel is inherently more sterile. It's also sharper and blunts more quickly. Stainless steel is what medical professionals, tattoo artists, and acupuncturists use. But for all intents and purposes, both types will get the same job done.
Hoew to Use
How to use a derma roller
Follow these steps precisely to avoid any hazards and unwanted infections.
Step 1: Disinfect your roller
Disinfect your derma roller by letting it soak in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
Step 2: Wash your face
Thoroughly cleanse your face using a gentle pH-balanced cleanser. If you're using a derma roller with needles longer than 0.5 mm, you'll also need to wipe down your face with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol before the rolling process.
Step 3: Apply numbing cream, if needed
Depending on your pain tolerance, you might need to apply an anesthetic cream. However, you'll most certainly want some numbing cream for anything above 1.0 mm, since that needle length will draw blood via pinpoint bleeding. If you use numbing cream, follow the instructions the manufacturer provides, and make sure to completely wipe it if off before you start rolling! Numb Master Cream 5% Lidocaine ($18.97) is a great option.
Step 4: Begin derma rolling
The technique is very important, so listen closely! Splitting up your face into sections makes the whole process easier. Avoid rolling in the shaded area, which represents the orbital (eye sockets) area. 1.Roll in one direction 6 to 8 times, depending on your skin tolerance and sensitivity, and make sure to lift the roller after each pass. So, roll in one direction. Lift up. Repeat.
Lifting the derma roller after each pass prevents the dreaded "track marks" that make you look like a cat clawed your face. 1.After you roll in the same place 6 to 8 times, adjust the derma roller slightly, and repeat. Do this until you've covered the entire section of skin you're treating. 2.After rolling in one direction, it's time to go back over the area you just rolled and repeat the process in the perpendicular direction. For example, say you finished rolling across your forehead vertically, now would be the time to go back and repeat that entire process horizontally.
By the end of this entire procedure, you should have rolled over each area 12 to 16 times - 6 to 8 horizontally, 6 to 8 vertically. Contrary to popular belief, we do not need to roll diagonally. Doing so creates an uneven pattern distribution with more stress on the center. If you decide to do this, please be careful and take extra precautionary measures.
Step 5: Wash your face with water
After you're done microneedling, rinse your face with water only.
Step 6: Clean your derma roller
Clean your derma roller with dishwasher soap. Create a soapy water mix in a plastic container, then swish around the roller vigorously, making sure the roller doesn't hit the sides. The reason we use detergents like dish soap directly after rolling is because alcohol doesn't dissolve the proteins found in skin and blood.
Step 7: Disinfect your roller
Disinfect your derma roller again by letting it soak in the 70 percent isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes. Put it back in its case, give it a kiss, and store it somewhere safe.
Step 8: Continue your basic skin care routine
Follow up derma rolling with a basic skin care routine. That means no chemical exfoliates or active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, tretinoin, etc.